Way Down Upon The Suwannee River

It is only about six miles east of I-75 exit 439 among the gently rolling hills of northern Florida. The dark waters of an iconic river running through it and the clear chimes of a towering carillon waft among its trees. Throughout the year musicians, historians, artists, hikers and kayakers gather there for special occasions or to enjoy a day away from the ordinary to breathe deep of things extraordinary in their own special ordinariness.

Two Christmas seasons now, Judy and I have made the three-hour trip from Lakeland, Florida to White Springs, on the banks of the Suwannee River, to experience the Stephen Foster Folk Culture Center. The first time was enchanting. The second time was not disappointing. This time we took a friend who came away as excited we are about things seen and learned.

We planned our visit for an early afternoon arrival. This gave us time to stop in at Fat Belly’s restaurant where we enjoyed one of their specialties – a burger to remember. From there we went to the grounds of the Culture Center to enjoy a leisurely re-acquaintance with the life of Stephen Foster who made the Suwannee River famous without ever having been there. 

A modest museum includes quality dioramas of scenes memorialized by several of his more popular songs.

Through the afternoon there are shops to visit and trails to hike and a model train display to examine. Just before entering the grounds, there is a roadside pull-off near the remains of a hotel where visitors used to come to enjoy a health-giving boost from the areas springs. 





On the grounds a roadway leads to a boat launch at the river’s edge. Signs along the way point out that the placid river you see in December can become quite dangerous at other times.

As dusk settles over the grounds lights begin to appear. You would be aware of some of them earlier, but there is a magical character to the way they ease into being until, in the darkness, they become a silent choir of color. At the same time you become aware of more people and more activity. Bring folding chairs with you if you would like. Set them alongside the main street which winds its way through the park. 

After awhile volunteers from the community of White Springs will entertain you with a simple, seasonal parade. Following that, grab a free hot dog in the Park’s dining hall, listen to some dulcimer music in the museum and make your way back to your car.

It will be a night to remember in the quiet recesses of your mind.